We almost didn't go. But thankfully Passport Seva Kendra asked for a little too many things to get our complicated passport issue resolved. So there we were, Chennai bound; to go on to Paradise. Kala Paani, Sirai Chaalai, History text books- I vaguely remembered the gory history of Cellular Jail. It was far worse in real. The Hanging, the pits to collect dead bodies, the sadistic punishments... If you pooped more than a tiny earthen pot could take, you'd have to make more oil than you did everyday (which was an unreasonable 15 kilos). If you wanted more than 2 glasses of water (yes- the daily quota of water), go lick the Jamaadar's shoes dry. If you thought that all this made the freedom fighters stronger in will- get an Indian to torture another Indian, feed him food in an iron bowl- the rust will kill him anyway. We live in a time when many friends, even relatives are of different nationalities- British, Japanese, etc etc. After all these years, it seems ridiculous t