As you drive past Krishnagiri and onto Salem, you turn a rocky curve and suddenly you are hit by an unlikely sight- a mountain of green surrounded by fields of green and then some more green. You can count at least 5 shades of green- of shrubs, grass, trees and more of the same. As you whizz past this wall of green, you notice a lone white cottage. The next 4 days we reveled in much more!
They say all the beautiful moments of a journey happen between the planned bits. We were lucky, cos we didn't make many plans, except to get some good food every meal. A 7 hour drive to Madurai from Bangalore on a Sunday morning landed us at Dindigul for lunch. Shrii Saravana Bhavan is most obviously a joint trying to sell on the name made famous by the HSB people from Chennai. The only reason we entered here was because the heat outside was crazy and they had an AC dining area. And then the 'meals' arrived. Sambhar, Kozhambu and Rasam like I have never tasted before. If you are ever caught on the highway to Madurai and you have a hungry, cranky 6 year-old in the car, this is a place I recommend because the food is tasty, not spicy and simply good!
Navarathri in MADuRAI
There is a certain kind of gala chaos that is characteristic of festival time in India. Madurai during Navarathri is an exhuberant child gone berserk with a box of bright paints and no supervision. If you aren't the parent, you will join in! It is difficult not to get drawn into the colour, the noise and the peity of this temple town. Meenakshi stood radiant in Red and Gold on Sunday evening. And even as she readied herself to meet the million folded hands and vibhuti-smeared foreheads, Daddy J and Little S treated themselves to Appam and Puliyodare from the Mama in the whitest Veshti!
Good food- tick. And enough time at Her sannidhi to drink in the beauty of the fish-eyed One.
JIGARTHANDA
Jigarthanda in Madurai is different from the Jigarthanda that you will eat anywhere else, just like the jalebi- rabri at weddings is different from the ones they serve you at the Oberoi. A heavy-duty concoction that is a must have in Madurai. And there is a rule to eating it- you cannot stop with one! Our recco: try the FAMOUS jigarthanda on East Marat Road. There are others around Madurai with the same or similar name- they aren't as good.
22 Tanks, A Stone's throw
To wash away sins of a lifetime, how many people descend on Rameswaram every year is not a count that anyone is keeping. A 3 hour drive from Madurai, the roads are a great view once you get past Paramakudi (road work in progress to convert the existing one into a 4 lane highway so several diversions until Paramakudi). I hope we have rejuvenated ourselves with a holy dip, a darsanam of Ramanatha Swamy and Parvatha Vardini Ambal. Some places remind you of your grandmother's stories more than others. Every few yards in Rameswaram, you will find a story - the place where Rama returned after killing Ravana, the place he crowned Vibheeshana, the place in the middle of a salty ocean that has sweet water, and many more.
Drive further down to Dhanushkodi and this is a sight that wins hands down over many other 'wows' that we have seen before. Backwaters that gently ride up near the roads, white and black sand that carelessly cover marked lanes, stacked bunds that in themselves are so beautiful, ruins of a town that was. Standing on the edge of the water, every person who stands there WILL peer their neck to see if a glimpse of Lankan land is possible! That is the child-like excitement you cannot describe completely, but one that is a joyful experience. We had many a warm welcome for some Meen Soru (fish and rice) but an equally strong warning to not touch the sea (the last week alone, She has taken away 9 entire families, we were told). It is only wise to trust the instinct of the Fisherfolk.
And where did we catch some food? There are some high-end restaurants in Rameswaram- an over-priced Hyatt is one, and then there is the Daiwik Hotel- where we ate. Simple tasty food. They do try to convince you to have the elaborate buffet but will serve you a la carte if you insist.
Malai Kotai and Aaharam
A one-hour drive from Madurai, the Fort location on Google maps isn't very accurate and you will have to ask the locals for some help. The trek up the hill is uneventful too. Once inside, we walked in and out of small cave-like cells and rooms, sat under the two trees on the hill, clicked pictures, lazed around and walked around the water bodies. We tried moving the canons and wondered how far she would fire when loaded. And then looked higher up at the temple on the peak and decided it was ok to skip that last leg of climbing. And just as we decided to climb down, Mr. Karthik appeared. He told us stories of the Pandya Kings, the secrets of the Fort, the precision of construction, Tipu Sultan and the British occupation and Ramana Maharishi's brush with spirituality at the hillock. Two hours later, we finally climbed down the hill, wondering how guides like Karthik could make so much of a difference.The Dindigul Fort (locally called the Malai Kotai) is a rather ignored gem. And more so are the people who are passionate about this town and its heritage.
Driving back from Dindigul to Madurai, Aaharam is a new restaurant that looks like a trailer. Spl Executive Meals it was (since 'meals' is my daughter's new found craze). Yumm food, although the portions could be larger! Highly reccomended. This place is on the highway, so it would make for a great highway stop (the toilets are not well maintained though!).
Tirumalai Nayakar
The Tirumalai Nayakar Mahal is an eye sore during the day and a visual treat by night. Pigeon infested and Unkempt, the place even smells of pigeon poop in some places. A pity that this palace sees no maintenance. But walk in for the sound and light show late evening, and you are in for a surprise. A brilliantly choreographed show with a sound track that is fabulous, the only minus is the mosquito bites you will have to endure. If you go for this show, make sure you douse yourself in Odomos!
Dinner at Mohan Bhojanalaya- another must have in Madurai. Marvadi food- fresh. The taste of the lassi is still fresh in my mind. And don't forget to get some Halwa from Prema Vilas before you leave ...
We return from a great trip of fun, food and more! Madurai is a temple town and much more- Madurai is a people who have no pretense about themselves. In our drive of more than 1000 kilometers, we were amused and amazed in equal measure. A drive in which the clouds swallowed us as if like a giant cave with the sun shining bright behind us- a moment that left us giggling like kids. Every time we drive out with our little one, we re-live a little bit of our childhood, and learn a lot about adult life!
They say all the beautiful moments of a journey happen between the planned bits. We were lucky, cos we didn't make many plans, except to get some good food every meal. A 7 hour drive to Madurai from Bangalore on a Sunday morning landed us at Dindigul for lunch. Shrii Saravana Bhavan is most obviously a joint trying to sell on the name made famous by the HSB people from Chennai. The only reason we entered here was because the heat outside was crazy and they had an AC dining area. And then the 'meals' arrived. Sambhar, Kozhambu and Rasam like I have never tasted before. If you are ever caught on the highway to Madurai and you have a hungry, cranky 6 year-old in the car, this is a place I recommend because the food is tasty, not spicy and simply good!Navarathri in MADuRAI
Good food- tick. And enough time at Her sannidhi to drink in the beauty of the fish-eyed One.
JIGARTHANDA
Jigarthanda in Madurai is different from the Jigarthanda that you will eat anywhere else, just like the jalebi- rabri at weddings is different from the ones they serve you at the Oberoi. A heavy-duty concoction that is a must have in Madurai. And there is a rule to eating it- you cannot stop with one! Our recco: try the FAMOUS jigarthanda on East Marat Road. There are others around Madurai with the same or similar name- they aren't as good.
22 Tanks, A Stone's throw
To wash away sins of a lifetime, how many people descend on Rameswaram every year is not a count that anyone is keeping. A 3 hour drive from Madurai, the roads are a great view once you get past Paramakudi (road work in progress to convert the existing one into a 4 lane highway so several diversions until Paramakudi). I hope we have rejuvenated ourselves with a holy dip, a darsanam of Ramanatha Swamy and Parvatha Vardini Ambal. Some places remind you of your grandmother's stories more than others. Every few yards in Rameswaram, you will find a story - the place where Rama returned after killing Ravana, the place he crowned Vibheeshana, the place in the middle of a salty ocean that has sweet water, and many more.
Drive further down to Dhanushkodi and this is a sight that wins hands down over many other 'wows' that we have seen before. Backwaters that gently ride up near the roads, white and black sand that carelessly cover marked lanes, stacked bunds that in themselves are so beautiful, ruins of a town that was. Standing on the edge of the water, every person who stands there WILL peer their neck to see if a glimpse of Lankan land is possible! That is the child-like excitement you cannot describe completely, but one that is a joyful experience. We had many a warm welcome for some Meen Soru (fish and rice) but an equally strong warning to not touch the sea (the last week alone, She has taken away 9 entire families, we were told). It is only wise to trust the instinct of the Fisherfolk.And where did we catch some food? There are some high-end restaurants in Rameswaram- an over-priced Hyatt is one, and then there is the Daiwik Hotel- where we ate. Simple tasty food. They do try to convince you to have the elaborate buffet but will serve you a la carte if you insist.
Malai Kotai and Aaharam
A one-hour drive from Madurai, the Fort location on Google maps isn't very accurate and you will have to ask the locals for some help. The trek up the hill is uneventful too. Once inside, we walked in and out of small cave-like cells and rooms, sat under the two trees on the hill, clicked pictures, lazed around and walked around the water bodies. We tried moving the canons and wondered how far she would fire when loaded. And then looked higher up at the temple on the peak and decided it was ok to skip that last leg of climbing. And just as we decided to climb down, Mr. Karthik appeared. He told us stories of the Pandya Kings, the secrets of the Fort, the precision of construction, Tipu Sultan and the British occupation and Ramana Maharishi's brush with spirituality at the hillock. Two hours later, we finally climbed down the hill, wondering how guides like Karthik could make so much of a difference.The Dindigul Fort (locally called the Malai Kotai) is a rather ignored gem. And more so are the people who are passionate about this town and its heritage.Driving back from Dindigul to Madurai, Aaharam is a new restaurant that looks like a trailer. Spl Executive Meals it was (since 'meals' is my daughter's new found craze). Yumm food, although the portions could be larger! Highly reccomended. This place is on the highway, so it would make for a great highway stop (the toilets are not well maintained though!).
Tirumalai Nayakar
The Tirumalai Nayakar Mahal is an eye sore during the day and a visual treat by night. Pigeon infested and Unkempt, the place even smells of pigeon poop in some places. A pity that this palace sees no maintenance. But walk in for the sound and light show late evening, and you are in for a surprise. A brilliantly choreographed show with a sound track that is fabulous, the only minus is the mosquito bites you will have to endure. If you go for this show, make sure you douse yourself in Odomos!
Dinner at Mohan Bhojanalaya- another must have in Madurai. Marvadi food- fresh. The taste of the lassi is still fresh in my mind. And don't forget to get some Halwa from Prema Vilas before you leave ...
We return from a great trip of fun, food and more! Madurai is a temple town and much more- Madurai is a people who have no pretense about themselves. In our drive of more than 1000 kilometers, we were amused and amazed in equal measure. A drive in which the clouds swallowed us as if like a giant cave with the sun shining bright behind us- a moment that left us giggling like kids. Every time we drive out with our little one, we re-live a little bit of our childhood, and learn a lot about adult life!
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